A Travellerspoint blog

Movie Reel a Million Miles Long

Wolf Children Snow and Rain

One of the things that my brother said I should do while I was in Japan was watch a movie. So, my second week here, I found a cinema and looked at what they had. At the time, it was just movies I wouldn't have been interested in watching in the US, and didn't think would be improved by more expensive tickets and a language barrier.

I went back yesterday and checked again. The movies had shifted a bit, and there was a new one that looked appealing. オオカミこどもの雪と雨。This one had three things going for it. It was a Japanese movie, it was a children's movie, and I understood the title. Unfortunately, they were sold out yesterday, so I went back today and bought a ticket.

Somehow, even in the part of me that was preparing to buy a ticket, I'd forgotten about the actual buying a ticket process. You can't pick up a movie, put it on the counter, and pay for it. It doesn't even have a menu that you point to and say 'Kore.' Besides which, I don't think I've ever bought a movie ticket before. Usually someone I'm with buys it for me.

Also, apparently at Japanese theaters you pick your seat when you buy the ticket. So they pulled out a seating chart and asked me where I wanted to sit. I understood what they were asking for, but I literally had no idea where to sit, so I just stared at the sheet blankly. I eventually managed to communicate my not-caring, and then they picked a seat for me.

It was tricky, but reassured me that, when I needed it, my Japanese skills were there. I was able to recall enough of the movie title and answer most of their questions. (I think I told them the time when they were asking how many, but fortunately I only got one ticket instead of 1,720.) I even managed to show my student ID and get a student discount.

Like I'd noticed at other movies, just because I'm watching a children's movie doesn't mean that the trailers were all for children's movies. Which means when I walked in and found my seat, I had several minutes of watching the trailers and wondering if I'd have a very dull two hours of not understanding anything.

I'd seen a fair number of the trailers before. None of them made any more sense in Japanese then they had when I watched them in English.

I think there was only one other Japanese film shown in the trailers. That one was live action. I didn't have any idea of the plot, but it seemed melodramatic. I'm not sure if that's because the movie was, because movie trailers in general are, or because without being able to understand the language I mentally filled the dialogue in with lines from the movie trailer I'd seen most often.

The only trailer that surprised me was Avengers. That one surprised me by being in English. Spider Man was one of the films playing when I checked two weeks ago, The Dark Knight Rises is playing later this week, but Avengers doesn't come out until mid-August. When discussing it with other people, we agreed that the most likely explanation was it was being dubbed into Japanese. But if they were dubbing the movie, wouldn't the trailers be dubbed too, and not simply subtitled?

(Warning: Spoilers contained below)

From the title, I guessed it would be about two wolf-children: Snow and Rain. I was right.

The movie was good, and I mostly understood what was going on. I'm curious how much of that was from my knowledge of Japanese, and how much I would have understood even if I didn't understand a word of Japanese. Short answer: two words ('bye-bye.') But plot-wise, I probably could have figured most of it out.

A lot of the more emotional scenes, there was only music playing and visuals. For example, when they move into a new house there are a lot of different shots of the mother repairing it and making it liveable. In another shot, it switches between the daughter's classroom, where she's being social, and the son's, where he's sitting in the back, alone.

Other scenes relied mostly on a a couple of words repeated. For instance, when the son is almost drowning, the mother is shouting his name, and he's shouting 'Mom.' In another scene, both children become wolves and start fighting each other, while the mother calls 'Yuki! Ame! Stop!'

There were also scenes with dialogue, some of them quite important. For instance, the daughter's arc peaks with her revealing to one of her friends she's a wolf. (This is also in an abandoned school during a storm, so you know it's an important scene.) She says something that contains the word 'wolf.' (Wolf- ookami, was really easily recognizable. Something about the sounds of the syllables. It made the movie easier to follow than it would have been if it had been about bear children.) Then the curtain blows to cover her, the shadow turns into that of a wolf, and the goes back to reveal a wolf head. She talks a bit more, then the curtain covers her and she changes back. Her friend says something, and she starts crying. It's not until she says 'thank you' that I realized he said something nice.

As a side note, the audience was much quieter than an American audience would have been. That shouldn't really have come as a surprise, but... when I watch movies in theaters, the audience will laugh, even at things that aren't that funny. There were some scenes that I found amusing- like the father bringing his pregnant wife a live chicken he'd caught as a wolf- that the audience barely reacted to. The mother laughed more than the audience when her daughter described how all of her friends ran away because, while they were making daisy chains, she was catching a snake and proudly showed it to them. Only one line got a significant chuckle from the audience. I really wish I knew what that line was.

It was a new experience. I'd watched things in Japanese before, but that had always had English subtitles (except for the one movie with French subtitles.) Although I sometimes tried to only look at the screen after they'd talked, the subtitles were still a shortcut to figure out what was going on. Besides, then I would miss the visuals. Watching a movie in the theater meant I couldn't even rewind it to figure out what they're saying. Still, I think I picked up enough to figure out what was going on, and it was fun.

In a way, it felt like one of the more immersive experiences I've had. Class doesn't feel real, because there's always a set lesson, and that's not the way real life work. Most conversations have been short and repetitious. Even when I'm not talking in English, I'm still thinking in it. When I try reading something in Japanese, it's with liberal amounts of translation tools.

But, for the two hours the movie took, I had no translation tools. There was no lesson being taught. If I tried thinking too much I'd miss what was going on. The only way to understand the movie was to keep watching, keep listening, and keep paying attention. And if I missed what happened in a scene but kept watching I'd either figure it out, or it would turn out to be unimportant. I just needed to pay attention.

Posted by Soseki 05:28 Comments (2)

Hey Girls, It's the Comfort of the Only Halfway Human

I finally made it to a a Sushi Bar last week. But there's another type of restaurants in Japan which are about as stereotypically Japanese, hard to find in the US, and experience worthy. Just on a whole different scale.

I'd been warned that Maid Cafes were expensive. I certainly wasn't going to go back to Akihabara, which is renowned for them, just to have a woman made to resemble the type of innocent girl found in mangas serve me. But after passing a woman standing out in a street, dressed as a maid and holding a menu several times, I decided to try.

I went over, looked at the menu, and said (in Japanese) 'It looks delicious.' (That was one of the structures we'd learned to make this course. I'm sure all five Japanese teachers I've had in my life would be thrilled learn where my Japanese skills are getting me.) Then I followed her down into the basement.

She had some difficulty opening the door (it was a pull, not push) but then we were in. At first glance, it looked a bit like a normal restaurant, with a stricter dress code than most. It's in the menus and the waitstaff that things are different.

Maid Cafes are designed for otaku- Japanese nerds. This was clear from the design of the walls. There were large patterns made up of smaller words and images in varying colors- like a fractal kind of pointillism. The smaller writing that I recognized was mainly math or video games- level up, e^(i*pi)=-1, etc. One of the larger pictures that I saw was of a castle, complete with two 'window' video screens.

There were video screens around the cafe, and manga characters who would make their way around. Like the waitresses, they were all female and dressed like maids. Unlike the waitresses, they all had the ears and tails of different animals. There was a rabbit, a bear, a cat, a dog, and a creature I couldn't identify. The each made their way slowly around the restaurant, walking/dancing between different screens.

Hanging from the ceiling were rubix-cubes-looking lights. On the hour, they changed color, the music changed, and the characters started running around the screens looking scared. When the lights were touched, a video-game sound effect played and the characters all grew bigger for a couple of seconds.

I was shown a seat, and then a waitress came over and knelt on the floor next to me. She asked if I spoke Japanese, I responded 'a little,' and then she spoke in English for the rest of the time. She had sheets with written sentences to show me too. It was 500 yen per hour, and I needed to order something.

'Drink- OK. Food- OK.' Something pointing to herself '-OK.' I smiled and nodded, trying not to look too terrified.

She brought out an electric candle, and blew on it. Then she counted down from three, and said we should do that together. I nodded, and then we counted down. She blew on the candle again (then a few more times because it didn't work) and then the light went on. She said it, as a light, had turned on (it's a single verb in Japanese) and then said something else. Then I think she took the candle away, because I looked for it later and couldn't find it.

She asked if I was hungry, and I tried to ask to just look at the menu. Then she started to write down 'Are you hungry,' so I said no. She showed me the drink menu, and it was clear she wasn't going to go away until I ordered. I settled on a latte. I kind of meant to pay the extra hundred yen for her to do a drawing on it while I watched, but when she asked 'No drawing OK?' I nodded.

She brought me the drink, said something in Japanese, and made each of her hands into half a heart and brought them together. I stared at her. 'Together!' Another smile and nod, and I mimicked her hand gesture. She repeated the words, and I hoped it was OK that I didn't.

This was the first Sunday that I'd been able to navigate myself around Tokyo but had not gone to the Cat Cafe. I ended up comparing the two. I'm not sure which is more disturbing- the fact that the basic service for the Maid Cafe was cheaper, or the fact that the maids were more friendly.

Several maids came up to me and asked questions. Only one of them spoke to me exclusively in Japanese. One of them gave me a pair of cat ears, then several of them commented on it. About half of them told me their names and paused, clearly wanting me to repeat it after them.

At some point, I think they realized that I was simply a tourist seeing what it was like and wasn't likely to spend any more money, so they stopped coming by. That, or they ran out of waitresses who spoke English and I wasn't being that talkative. In any case, I was left at leisure to explore the menu.

There were several English phrases,like 'one of our maids makes a float just for you. Any kind of float is fun!' or 'one of our maids makes a drawing on your coffee' or 'You can take a picture with your favorite maid.' (All had prices next to them, of course.) There were a fair number of phrases in Japanese with no English translation nearby.

At some point it occurred to me that there are two main types of people to visit a Maid Cafe. There would be the Japanese nerds it was designed for, some of whom would come back multiple times. And there would be the foreign tourists like me who would have heard about them, but wanted to see what they were like.. The simple solution to accommodating both would be to not translate some of the kinkier things.

Once I realized that, I rechecked the menu and found the most expensive item on it. I'm not sure I want to know what the fifteen minutes of dream time was.

I will say this for Maid Cafes- they know who their primary audience is, and they appeal to that. At the end of the visit, I got a card with forty-nine numbers on it, and the first one stamped with today's date. The last box is labeled 'Rank Up.' If I were to fill in every box, I would level up to another card. After I did that four times, I would get a VIP card. This card would entitle me to... a five percent discount.

That would be a lot for a normal cafe. Starbucks could not institute that kind of system and have a significant number of people bother keeping the card. But it's only another forty-nine visits, and then I'm at the next level!

Posted by Soseki 05:28 Comments (1)

A Dream Can Be a Dream Come True

I knew that we were going to Disney Land today, but I don't think I realized what that meant until I saw the bus. I've never been on a bus with chandeliers before. The seats weren't that much more comfortable to sit in, and it still moved like a normal bus, but between the chandeliers and the colored lights on the sides, it certainly felt a lot more impressive.

Once we were at Disney Land, I joined three other people and we set off quickly for the rides. By 'quickly' I mean we alternated fast walking with complete stops to take pictures. (Disney Castle is very impressive when you first see it. So are ducks.)

For two of the people in the group, it was effectively their first time at a Disney anything. (One of them had been before, but didn't remember.) One was so awe-struck by everything that it was like traveling with a well-behaved five-year-old. (Five-year-olds aren't quite as cute as three-year-olds, but they'd probably appreciate Disney Land more.)

So, first ride at Disney Land Tokyo, and where do I go? It's a Small World, After All. Where else? Fortunately, the (approximately) seventeen consecutive time s I rode it the last time I was at a Disney Resort gave me a fond nostalgia and not an urge to strange the overly-cheery children. So it was familiar, but still nice to see.

Next, we went to Alice's Teacup. It was a rather generic spinning ride, with both the platform we were on and the teacup itself spinning. It was weird to realize I was probably the only one thinking about the physics going on. I'm used to being around people more scientifically-minded than myself, and the last few times I've been on that kind of ride, it was with people who would have been giving a lot more thought to the forces acting on us. Kind of lonely to realize that wasn't the case with this trip.

After that, we went to the Haunted Mansion. The creepiest part was when the ride stopped, the music paused, and an announcement in Japanese came on. Creepy, because I realized the announcer could be saying 'Please make your way to the nearest exit as soon as possible' and I wouldn't know until other people started leaving the ride.

Although not scary, the ride was quite good. There were theoretically 900 ghosts, and from rough observation that doesn't seem like too many. The music varied- not always dark or eerie. Sometimes it even felt light, and I think I heard bagpipes. (I also think I saw them, which makes three different bagpipers seen in Disney Land, and only two on It's a Small World Ride.) There were ghosts playing peek-a-boo behind gravestones, and pictures with holographic eyes that followed you. Unfortunately, the only parts in English were really bad puns ('We're dying to have you here,' and 'Dead end. Please return to the land of the living.') But the rest of the ride was still pretty.

There was a long wait before the next ride (something in Western Land) but we all agreed afterward that it was worth it. Ther were two drops, and a fair number of curves. We'd managed to pass out the rain under the roof, so it was only misting lightly when we were on the ride. I think it's been a while since I've been on a ride like that, and I've changed since then. Mainly, I think I used to be scared myself instead of taking sadistic pleasure in other people's fear. It was fun, though.

After that ride, we went to Splash Mountain to figure out how a Fast Pass would work. It turned out to be quite simple- you go to the ride, scan the ticket you used to get in, and it will print out a pass with two times. The first time is when you return to the ride, the second is when you can get another fast pass for another attraction. So, with a 14:30-15:30 time to come back to Splash Mountain, we headed off.

The next ride was Peter Pan. At first, it felt like we were moving quickly, because we'd managed to go from Western United States to London so quickly. Then I realized we were slowing down because we'd managed to cover the entire world in half that time previously.

Like at Ghibuli Museum, there were some attractions that made me wish I was more familiar with the underlying story. Peter Pan was one of those. I recognized the first room as being Wendy's bedroom, (actually, it was probably the bedroom of one of her brothers who I don't remember the name of) I recognized the last scenes with Captain Hook and a ticking crocodile, and I recognized London from above. But beyond that, I was just staring at pretty images and wondering what it meant.

Roger Rabbit's Comic Spin succeeded where the Haunted Mansion failed. Ghosts popping out at you during a ride is funny. Cartoons doing it is creepy. I'm not sure if the overall effect was deliberate, or was caused mainly by lingering familial fears from watching Who Framed Roger Rabbit. Either way, the ride was good.

We had time to kill before our Fast Pass would work, so we went on a Gadget Inventors Ride. It had a twenty-minute wait, which made it about perfect for our purposes. The ride was clearly meant for smaller children- we had trouble getting into the seats. It was a short ride, but there was a bit of up and down, making it a good warm-up for our next ride.

The main attraction of Splash Mountain was a sharp drop. There was a lot more to the ride than I expected. Not just climbing up- there were several precursory drops, and long stretches of flat scenery and story. All of those building up to the 'Laughing Place,' and we all knew what that looked like.

Contrary to what my facial expression on an overpriced picture no one bought is, I think the anticipation was worse than the drop. The drop was steep, but it was over really quickly. It was before that- the climbs I knew we needed to go down, the drops that made me think 'is this it? No, it's not,' the disquietingly flat stretches- that was more mentally scary. If I'd taken that ride again, I don't think I would have been as nervous.

Next, we went on a rocket ride. It was one of those rides where you get in the vehicle you're in is attached to long poles and you spin around. In this case, the vehicles were made to look like rockets, and the entire ride was one floor off the ground. Apart from its dizzyfying effect, it was a really pretty view of Disney (and a couple of tall, non-Disney buildings in the background.)

After that, we sat down to wait for the parade to come. (There were two parades- one at four and one at eight.) It was beautiful. There were a combination of characters on floats and dancers on the street. The characters were good for nostalgic purposes (some of them, anyway) but the dancers were prettier. The most characters would do would be to wave, but the dancers had clear choreography, and were impressive to watch individually and as a group.

As I watched the parade, I realized that my thought of what makes Disney is different from other people. Mickey Mouse is so emblematic of Disney World and Disney Land, but I have no particular attachment to that branch. I might have watched some of the newer Disney movies, and even watched some of them as a child, but they're not part of my childhood the way the classics are.

Even where the classics are concerned, I still have significant breaks. I recognized Beauty right away because I'd seen at a picture of her in that yellow dress most days of the past school year, and I somehow remembered the blue dress was Cinderella. But I couldn't place the princess in the pink dress until after the float had passed, and even that it was only process of elimination that I figured out that was Sleeping Beauty.

Although I can recognize them, Disney for me isn't really about the princesses. I haven't seen all of the new ones, and have very little memory for most of the classics. I'm more fond of the original fairy tales than the movies, so my Little Mermaid dies at the end, and it's not Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. It's Snow White and Rose Red.

There are two kinds of Disney movies that I find important. There are the ones that, sometimes supplemented with the original story, made my childhood. Lion King, Aladdin, Toy Story, and Beauty and the Beast. Then there are the ones that I watched too late to really be part of my childhood, but would still rank amongst my favoirtes: Up, Mulan, and Wall E. I'm curious what other people's lists would look like.

Beyond satisfaction from the movies, Tokyo Disney Land is still a very fun place to spend a day. And everyone agrees that a teacher who doesn't let his children watch Disney movies because he doesn't teach the children constructive things is being cruel to his kids.

Posted by Soseki 05:46 Comments (4)

I Know Where I Am Right Now

One of the things we learned in Japanese class was how to express uncertainty that something is going to happen. One of the examples that was used a lot was weather, including that we were weathermen. Until I'd heard a weather report, I assumed that was just a simplistic example. In the US, I know there are usually percentages attached to chances of precipitation. But (and it's been a while since I've paid attention) I don't think they make statements like 'it will probably rain tomorrow. It will probably be hot, too.' In japan, they do.

After class, I went with a group of people to get sushi. We we looking for a restaurant that had been marked on the maps we got the first day of school. We had some issues finding that, which made me feel real dumb, because, stereotypically, it should not be hard to find a sushi restaurant in Japan. (In point of fact, it wasn't, and we'd walked past it in the search.)

I knew some of what to expect. For instance, I did not freak out when I saw a conveyor belt, and I knew that they'd be charging by the plate. (I even managed to see prices before I took a plate.) Other parts were more confusing. Like the tea.

Fortunately, I was sitting at one end of the group, so I had a seat next to a Japanese person who had experience with sushi restaurants. (And foreigners. He spoke to me in English from the beginning.) Without him, I would have either had nothing to drink, drunk hot water, or burned myself. Probably at least two of the above.

After someone at the other end of our group (there were only four of us, but it felt like a great distance) got herself a liquid, I wanted to try too. So I took a cup, looked at the spouty thing next to me, held up the cup, and tried pushing something.

The person sitting next to me told me to put down my cup and handed me a spice shaker filled with green powder. I powdered my cup and glanced at him.

Him: Yes, you add one shot.

I'd already been so emboldened by my success at using something that looked like a salt shaker but brought out powdered tea instead that I'd done it again.

Him: Or two. That works.

Then I tried up the cup and tried pressing the faucet again. He told me that wouldn't work, and showed me which button did work. Then he stopped me before I pressed it and showed me that you press the cup against the button, thereby allowing the hot water to go into the cup. I thanked him, then tasted my hard-earned tea.

The next cup was much easier.

Apart from that, the sushi restaurant was fairly straightforward. I tried new things, and didn't always like them. But, contrary to what I'd been warned, the prices were not unreasonable, and it was one of those experiences that I should have while in Japan, so I'm glad I went.

Today, I was tired of not finding yarn stores, so I took a drastic new measure- the subway. It was a new experience, in that it was the first time I needed to find a new place completely alone. It wasn't as bad as it could have been- I knew from maps on the internet exactly what station I needed to go to, and how to get from there to the yarn store. But I needed to find the right line to go from Shibuya to there, and that took time and a working internet connection. (I tried to find it on subway maps, and couldn't.)

If I want to fall asleep on a train in Tokyo and still get to my destination, I found the perfect line to do so. I boarded the train at the first stop and stayed on until the last station. Which means I got a seat both directions, and could literally not miss my stop. (I wish I'd realized that earlier. I also wish I'd thought to take an express train on the way out- it made a difference.)

I realized there would be some issues in not speaking the language, but I didn't expect it to be too bad. My standard strategy for stores in Tokyo is to put the item I want on the counter, and then pay for it. Straightforward enough. My ability to read yarn labels would be diminished, but I typically buy yarn based on color and softness, not name (or even fiber type.) So a yarn store would be a challenge, but not much more than a grocery store. (And less of a chance of buying dried octopus.)

I'm not sure if this is true of most yarn stores in Japan or just a quirk of the one I went to, but yarn didn't come wrapped up in nice neat (or even easily-tangled) balls to buy. Instead, you bought it the same way you buy potatoes- by weight.

I don't pay attention to how much my yarn weighs. That's never been important to me. I've occasionally noticed when labels mention it, but that's not the sort of thing I ever pay attention to.

There were four things that allowed me to judge how much yarn I should get. I found them in reverse order of usefulness. The first was that each yarn had a grams-to-meters ratio. This was slightly more useful, because I paid slightly more attention to length then I played to weight. The second was kit, that came with a pattern and the required amount of yarn. If I'd felt like making anything shown, I could have, but that would only be procrastinating on certain issues (like the fact that I can barely make a sweater if I'm following a pattern in English, and there's no way I could do it in Japanese.) The third was pattern books- by glancing through those, I could get the idea of how much yarn some projects took. Not any projects I was interested in, but some patterns.

Finally, there were a couple of swatches around. One in particular caught my eye. It was a bit short to be a scarf, but about the right width, and was made up of 8 different colors. It also included weight. Coincidentally, I ended up buying yarn of that type.

And then on the way back I got lost. I made it to the train station, I made it onto the right train, I did not get off early, and I made it to the same point I'd already been twice this week. I knew two different ways that, if I followed exactly, would get me back. I took a third way.

From that point on, I had a very concrete method for dealing with forks in the road. I'd get to a road, make a decision, walk until I saw a sign, and usually end up turning back, retracing my route, and going the other way. Eventually I got back onto streets I recognized and did not deviate from those.

At least I wasn't sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler.

Posted by Soseki 05:55 Comments (0)

And That's a Fault of Mine I'm Working On


Allegedly, it's supposed to take four weeks to make a habit. (Or maybe that's to break one.) Even if some of the 'habits' I've picked up aren't yet automatic, they're definitely getting there.

The train station has become fairly automatic on both sides. I figured out which exit I want to head to by the end of the first week. Now, it's just a matter of fluidity, which I think I've managed decently. Getting the ticket, going through without waiting for the gates to close from the person in front of me, managing to put the ticket back in the wallet while walking towards the train... all going smoothly. I've consistently managed other things too, like getting off the train and by the water fountain so I can refill my water bottle and put my book back in my bag without getting trampled by rushing commuters.

I'm still bad at basic maneuvers, like paying for an item at a grocery store. (Depending on the store, they might not show the price, so I need to either know exactly how much the items summed to, be able to understand what they're saying when they talk really quickly, or put down a sufficiently large amount to cover it. I usually go with the third option.) I have very little knowledge of how much change I have at any given time, so I sometimes end up dumping every coin out of my wallet and finding that it only sums to about seventy for a hundred-yen item. Then I need to put down a 1000 yen bill and struggle to put all the change, and the new coins they're giving me, back in my wallet.

Regardless, when I'm walking in the street, I want to at least look like I know what I'm doing. This mainly consists of walking on the left side of the street.

I picked that one up really quickly. By the third day, when I realized I was walking without thinking about it and checked myself, I realized I was already on the left side. Today, I noticed that it felt weird to pass someone on the right. When I go back to the US, this will either result in me unlearning just as quickly, or getting run over by a car. I'm hoping for the former.

Other things might take longer, because there's more conscious thought going into them, and they're less destructive. The strongest example is washing my hands when I get home. It's a Japanese custom, my host mother isn't usually around when I get back, so I'm not doing it for her. I'm doing it because, the second day of class, the teacher asked who washed their hands whenever they got back to their house, and everyone else raised their hand. So I gave in to peer pressure and started doing that.

I'll try and turn the key to get into the house the wrong way, but I do that anyways. It will be weird that there's only one lock, not a fence and two locks, but that sense of unease will probably fade soon. I don't think the roads are similar enough for me to try the same routes I walk in Japan, but at some point I might.

If I'm given chopsticks with my food, I'll use those. I might try drinking my soup more than eating it. (That could quickly be a problem with turkey carcass and bones soup) I might try taking my plate to the kitchen and retreating upstairs, but I have a feeling that would be a habit very quickly broken.

I'll probably continue to apologize to people I run into in the streets with 'sumimasen.' If I'm riding a train and see an open seat, I will swoop down on it like a vulture.

Those are the ones that I can think of right now, but I'm sure there will be other things that I'll discover once I'm back in Chicago. For now, though, it's another full week of trying to look like I have some idea what I'm doing, even when I don't.

Posted by Soseki 04:55 Comments (0)

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